The 18th arrondissement's dual identity — part tourist attraction, part working-class Parisian neighbourhood — makes it one of the city's most complex and rewarding places to stay. The tourist Montmartre (Place du Tertre, the Sacré-Cœur steps, the postcard sellers) is undeniable but actually confined to a small area. Walk five minutes in any direction and you're in a neighbourhood of African fabric shops, Algerian pastry sellers, jazz bars that open at 10 PM, and a residential community that has been living alongside the tourism industry for over a century.
Hotels in Montmartre tend to be small — the winding streets and irregular plots don't lend themselves to large buildings — and this works in their favour. The Hôtel Particulier, tucked down a private alley with a garden that Paris shouldn't be able to contain, is the neighbourhood's finest property and one of the best small hotels in France. The Terrass'' Hotel occupies the most dramatic position, with panoramic city views from its rooftop restaurant that make every table feel like the best table in Paris.
Practically, Montmartre's hilltop location means there are two types of room views: Paris-facing (spectacular, with Sacré-Cœur visible at night) and village-facing (the neighbourhood's narrow streets and intimate squares). Both have their advocates. The funicular from the Place Saint-Pierre takes most of the pain out of the ascent; the descent is one of the great Parisian pleasures regardless of the time of day.
The neighbourhood's nightlife — once associated exclusively with the Moulin Rouge — has diversified considerably. The area around the Abbesses Métro station has some of the city's most interesting bars and small restaurants; the Rue des Abbesses itself on a Friday evening is as good as any street in Paris for a spontaneous evening. La Cigale and La Boule Noire (both on the Boulevard de Rochechouart) are among Paris's finest mid-size concert venues.